Patricia Wells's Cobb Salad:

yield: 4 servings

Robert H. Cobb, owner of the Brown Derby restaurant in Hollywood, is said to have invented this salad in the 1930s as a late-night snack for himself. No wonder it has remained an American classic. With the crunch of the iceberg and onions, the soft richness of the avocado, the saltiness of the bacon, the sweetness of the tomato, and the bite of the blue cheese, this salad has it all! And it is beautiful to boot ›

• 2 1/2 ounces smoked bacon, rind removed, cut into matchsticks (3/4 cup)
• 1 head iceberg lettuce, chopped (4 cups)
• 2 ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored, peeled, seeded, and chopped
• 1 large ripe avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed
• 4 ounces chilled blue cheese (preferably Roquefort), crumbled (1 cup)
• 4 small spring onions or scallions, white part only, trimmed, peeled, and cut into thin rounds
• Yogurt and Lemon Dressing
• Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large, dry skillet, brown the bacon over moderate heat until crisp and golden, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to several layers of paper towels to absorb the fat. Blot the top of the bacon with several layers of paper towels to absorb any additional fat. Set aside.

2. In a large, shallow bowl, combine the bacon, lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, cheese, and spring onions. Toss with just enough dressing to lightly and evenly coat the ingredients. Season generously with pepper, and serve.

WINE SUGGESTION: This is a special salad, one that seems to hit the spot with all my guests, so let's open a nice, special bottle of smoky-style Alsatian Riesling from the house of Léon Beyer, Trimbach, or Hugel. Neither you nor your guests will be disappointed.